Collar with 1/4" seam allowance

1. Cut 3 of fabric
2. Cut 1 or 2 of interfacing.
3. Apply interfacing to 1 or 2 of the collars according to desired amount of stiffness. My sample had two layers on the inner collar. The collars I actually made had a layer on both the inner and outer collar.

Collar Stand with 1/4" seam allowance except for 1/2" at neck edge

1. Cut 2 of fabric
2. Cut 1 of interfacing
3. Apply interfacing to inner stand

Outer collar stand

1. Cut away 1/4 in of lower seam allowance

Prepare outer collar for collar stay

1. Note: My sample did not have this--I made it up after looking at some other shirts in the closet.
2. Place outer collar piece on work surface right side up.
3. Place 3rd (extra) collar piece on top of outer collar right side up.
4. Fold under lower section as illustrated
5. Press

Stitch channel for collar stay

1. Stitch your channel similar to the blue lines shown at left.
2. Make sure you make the channel wide enough for your stay.

Stitch collar

1. Stack collar layers right sides together
2. Sitch seam along one short edge, sew off end, stitch long edge from end to end, stitch remaining short edge. Do not turn corners when stitching.
3. To turn collar, fold one seam allowance in, hold tightly, fold the other seam allowance over first at angle and turn point out in one motion (practice!) No trimming required.
4. Press and topstitch

Prepare Inner Stand

1. Press interfaced inner stand SA to underside along stitching line
2. To assist in the pressing, you might make a template of the finished collar stand from a manila file folder and press the lower seam allowance over that.
3. Topstitch 1/4" from fold.
4. This stitching will be visible in finished stand, so be neat!

Stitch collar to stand

1. Sandwich finished collar between right sides of inner and outer stand.
2. Match raw edge of collar to raw collar edges of stands.
3. Be sure that the inner stand is against inner collar.
4. Match mid-point and front edges of collar to marked locations on collar stand.
5. Stitch, turn and press.
6. TIP: When stitching the curve, go slowly and use a clear presser foot. If you don't have one, get one! It will make the process much easier. I like to stitch a stitch or two, raise the presser foot to let things relax, turn the fabric if necessary, then stitch a bit more--the knee lift on the Bernina makes this much easier. BTW, I learned this technique in doll class--it takes patience and tiny stitches to stitch around those little fingers! ;-)
7. At left you see a completed collar/stand ready to be installed on the shirt. The topstitching is already done.

Topstitch stand

1. Topstitch along seam line leaving neck seam allowance free. This photo shows this stitching on the sample shirt.

Stitch outer collar to neck edge

1. Using 1/4" SA, stich outer stand to neck edge leaving topstitched inner stand free.
2. Turn toptstiched inner collar over raw edges and press.
3. Topstitch along lower edge of stand, catching all thicknesses.
4. Don't make yourself crazy over this. Remember that the outer collar is already stitched in place, and the collar will cover it. You really want the bit that might show if the shirt is unbuttoned to look best.