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Shirt Self-Education: Collar, Chapter 4
Monday, March 20, 2006
Ode to a Banker by Lindsey Davis
So what did I do this weekend? Aside from driving to Atlanta for an ASG CAB meeting, I almost finished the Diamond Blossom scarf that I've been knitting on forever. (I'll spare you a rant on that--at least for now.) Some significant sewing happened, as well!
OK, I'll give you a hint:
Using what I learned from the collar dissecting last week, I was able to make four, count 'em 1-2-3-4, new shirts for Mr H. (The light blue one isn't quite finished because it has to be sewn with white thread. Although I threaded up the Singer 401 so that I could sew it at the same time, when it came time to serge I had to move on with the others and leave the light blue one behind. He can rejoice, though, 'cause I'll finish that last one this week.)
I learned so much from taking that shirt apart. I won't dread collars ever again. The way those were sewn on made the part I worry over most--the center front edges of the neck band--seem simple. There was one final part of the collar not on the sample shirt--the removeable collar stay portion. My inner-engineer got a workout on that particular piece of the puzzle.
After examining several RTW shirts in DH's closet, I decided that it could be a very simple thing. Just cut three collar pieces, fold the bottom edge of one out of the way, and stitch a channel in two bottom layers to accept the stay. Simple. The third layer does a bit to support the collar, too.
The three dark shirt collars were already sewn before I seriously considered adding the stays, so only the light blue shirt has this feature. I found a pack of assorted-length collar stays at JoAnn's. I bought all they had to be prepared for future shirts! (Maybe I can keep up with them until the time comes.)
My co-worker says that shorter stays are better, so some of the JoAnn's stays will have to be trimmed to shorter lengths. It's really nice to work in a male-dominated industry--there's lots of shirts to look at and many opinions to seek.
Later, perhaps tomorrow, I'll summarize the collar construction for future reference. Then I'll tell you what else I learned from the sacrificial shirt.
You'll be amazed. 
Oops ... also meant to tell you that I've found your dissection of the men's shirt very interesting and enlightening. Thanks for detailing it.
Posted by Debbie C at March 20, 2006 10:22 AM
I was a one-woman sweatshop. ;-)
You can cut 2 undercollars, lay one one top of the other, fold under the outer bottom, then sew the channel. I topstitched the right side of the fold, but you could certainly sew down both sides. Once the channel is sewn on, place this unit right sides together with the outer collar and sew the collar as usual.
Mine is a little different because I had cut "Express Collars" a la Nancy Zieman. My undercollar for the channel had to be topstitched on out the outer edge...
Mud is probably more clear.
Posted by Beth H at March 20, 2006 10:51 AM
Fabulous work, Beth! Thanks so much for sharing it with us (are any of these shirts made from the Expo purchases?)
I do have a question, though...if the stays are removeable, how many do you really need? Could you just keep moving the same set from the shirt that's headed for the hamper to the shirt that's going to be worn tomorrow?
I've been querying myself on that same line regarding the removeable shoulder pads in Loes Hinse's jackets...why not just cover one or two pairs, then use them in whatever jacket I'm actually wearing?
I SO need to make my DH some shirts...
Posted by Lisa Laree at March 20, 2006 11:19 AM
Nope, much clearer than mud -- I get it. But ... what stops that fold that isn't stitched down from fraying down the road? Did you pink it? So, which one is DH wearing today? ;-)
Posted by Debbie C at March 20, 2006 11:52 AM
What interfacing did you use in the collar and the front band, and while you're at it, also the cuffs?
The shirts look absolutely great.
Lois
Posted by Lois at March 20, 2006 02:01 PM
Wow! I think this is my record for comments.
Lisa, DH needs a lot of stays. He does the laundry and *never* remembers to take them out. They come out of the dryer twisted. The three dark shirts are all expo purchases. He doesn't like the olive one, which I expected, but it will look great on him.
Debbie, The fold is kind of deep, and if I had thought of it, I would have stitched it down. That said, considering where it is, it probably won't give any trouble. He's wearing the black one (his favorite), but took all three with him when he left this morning for a trip. I'm eagerly awaiting a report.
Lois, These just have So-sheer in them. I've ordered some of Pam Isaacs-Erny's Pro-woven fusible in hopes that it will be more like the stiff RTW stuff. It hasn't come yet, though, so we'll see.
Posted by Beth H at March 20, 2006 04:20 PM
My, my, my! The shirts look great (but don't you think Mr. H. will oppose the sleeveless look?). I'm *kidding*! I can't wait to see the finished products. You were a crazy woman--sewing all those shrits. I continue to find it amazing that you get all this stuff done. I suppose the fact that I have a five- and ten-year old makes for less time to work on such projects. LOL! Keep up the wonderful work!
Posted by Mike Hawkins at March 20, 2006 05:20 PM
Holy Toledo Batman!! Four shirts! Great job. :-) I have a question ... in the pic of the collar stay, is the top layer which holds the stay just one layer of fabric, which is then laid on top of the other two to form the whole collar? I lied ... 2 questions ... to the left of the stay on the bottom edge of the fold, is that stitched up? I don't see any stitching like I can on the other side of the stay.
Posted by Debbie C at March 20, 2006 10:21 AM