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White Loose Fitting Shirt

Tuesday, October 04, 2005

This draft was to be made first from the vanilla shirting, but I decided to go ahead with the white cotton. Turns out, it doesn't look good with the J@va Vest anyway. The J@va Vest wants a *green* shirt to go with it, or maybe a blue one--anything but white!

The fit of this is nice and loose. I don't believe that I have ever used this much ease in a regular shirt drafted with PMB. (By regular I mean one not intended to be worn over something else.) Funny, before PMB I would not have considered 3.5 inches to be a lot of ease. When your draft fits right for you, extra ease isn't needed.

Naturally, I spent a lot of time in Pattern Editor with this. I wanted an extended yoke, so I had to add some of the front shoulder to the back. I also wanted to try the dart rotation tool in Pattern Editor, which I had never bothered to learn, so I used a project sheet that one of the PMB Certified Educators developed to rotate the dart into two shoulder pleats. Finally, I wanted to use the Zieman Express Collar--Louise Cutting does this, too--to eliminate bulk in the collar.

• Garment Type= Blouse
• Style= Classic Blouse
• Closure= Single Breasted
• Front Neckline= Jewel
• Back Neckline= Jewel
• Yoke= No Yoke
• Hemline Shape= Curved
• Darts= Side
• Upper Back Dart= Shoulder
• Sideseam shape= Fitted
• Front Waist Darts=2
• Back Waist Darts=2
• Front Neckline Depth= 0.5
• Back Neckline Depth= 0
• Neckline Width= 0.25
• Neckline Point= 0
• Armhole Depth= 0.5
• Dart Override=0
• Side/Arm Point=-0.5
• Side/Hip Point=-0.5

• Upper Back Dart Length=1
• Lower Front Dart Length=4.5
• Lower Back Dart Length=4.5
• Back Shoulder Dart Length=3
• Sleeve Style= Set In
• Sleeve Underarm Seam= Tapered
• Sleeve Hemline Shape=Pleated
• Sleeve Cap Ease=1.21
• Sleeve Length=22.5
• Sleeve Hem Circumference=8.5
• Sleeve Cap Height= -0.75
• Back Armhole Shape Up=0.8 Clicks
• Collar Style= Dress Shirt
• Collar Width=2
• Chest Ease= 3.5
• Waist Ease= 2.5
• Hip Ease= 4

• Eliminated waist darts on front and back torso
• Cut off 1.25" from the front shoulder and added it to the back.
• Cut off a yoke 4.5" from neckline at CB
• Rotated back shoulder dart to seamline
• Rotated front bust dart to two shoulder pleats
• Mirrored the collar and stand to create a "whole"
• Created the Express Collar from the regular collar pattern
• Smoothed the arc of the yoke piece
• Drafted a missing cuff (?!?)

This is the first woven top that I've made with my new WiderBack chart. I think it may have solved my problems with back tightness, although I really need to try it out on a more fitted garment. Perhaps I can even deflate the bicep measurement to more closely reflect my actual bicep measurement.

This shirt is a keeper--I think I'll retain this paper pattern to make again.