When I got the bodice done and held up the skirt for Butterick 5485, it was just too–well–
like for a 6 year old.
It is now a top and much better. I’m not done yet, but I’ve run into some gotchas and thought I’d share.
My mind being much more attuned to fixing Mr H than sewing, I’ve been casually following the printed instructions for my new Butterick dress-now-top. They have you construct the bodice, line it, then attach it to the skirt and *finally* put the zipper in. There are two big issues with this construction order, IMO.
First, you can’t fit as you go because the bodice side seams are inside the lining by the time you get to the skirt.
Second, the zipper application is tacky, tacky, and TACKY.
Tacky or not, I did it anyway. They have you fold in the upper edges of the zipper tape and apply it to the back of the top. They drew it neatly, but yours won’t be.
Mine most assuredly is not:
I realized afterward that they wanted the tape ends to wind up underneath the zipper and mine is on top. It wouldn’t have made any difference because those little ends aren’t going to stay where you put them long enough to be sewn down. I suppose I could have stitched them in place by hand, but I didn’t have the presence of mind to consider that last Sunday afternoon.
At least they can’t be seen from the outside.
Despite all that, I think it turned out really cute! (It’s not hemmed yet.) Not that I can wear it. Remember the inability to fit as you go?
When I make this again, I’ll change the sewing order so that I can pin fit with my nice 1-inch side seams and put in a decent zipper.
I think I’ll sew in this order:
- Back darts
- Front gathers
- Upper bodice to midriff sections
- Skirt to midriff, front and back still separate
- Insert zipper in back (easier flat, right?)
- Stitch shoulders
- Pin fit side seams
- Assemble bodice lining
- I might partially insert the bodice lining at this point
- Side seams, finish bodice lining
That should result in a neat garment that will not be snug on my hips. As for this one, I’ll hem it and wait to see if a few pounds to melt away.
I’ll just call it practice.
Brunhilde needed something new to wear.