The red jacket is done, but for one offending button. I sewed it on last night, but when I put the jacket on Brunhilde for a final check, the bottom button made the front hang funny. That button must be moved down about 1/8″ before you can see it. Perhaps tomorrow.
For now, I’m fitting another pattern for my little plan. It’s for a sleeveless top to wear underneath a jacket or other top. This one is the tank from Simplicity 2938, which I adore! If I can make the tank work, I’m gonna make the dress, too.
As with the last few garments, I’m starting with the size 10. I have the usual issues. I can get enough width, but I’m still trying to deal with all that excess length that I get in the center back.
I want to solve that on this top once and for all.
Part of what gives me that excess is the way I’ve been dealing with my rounded back. There is a little rounded back up there, but I think the biggest problem is prominent shoulder blades–just bad posture. Several of my books discuss the issue and yesterday I came up with something that may work better.
As with anything I say here–YMMV.
Try things and see what works for you.
That’s what makes this so fun!
Palmer/Pletsch’s Fit for Real People has you do something like this:
You add width all the way down (in blue) then dart out the excess in the existing shoulder and waist darts. Tried it. Didn’t like the bigger darts.
So. Let’s think about this logically, shall we?
This is a hump that needs more fabric over it. Like a breast needs a bust dart. Not so large, but the same idea. I should be able to approach it that way. The mound is on each side of the back about mid armhole. I put a point where I need more fabric and drew two lines pointing at that spot. Then I cut.
So far so good, but what do I do with that excess length? Normally I would slash across and move the center portion upward like this:
But that puts extra length at the center where I don’t want it. It also eliminates a little width that I might want mid-armhole. So I’m going to try this:
I’ll add the length to the inner dart leg and true the armscye seamline (in red). Then I’ll add a shoulder dart (in blue) to control the excess that the shoulder seam. Perhaps that will work. I’ll commit it to tissue tonight and see what I think.
After I get that button moved and the jacket photographed.