So I “muslined” Butterick 6028

Recalling how much I loved my other “Katherine pants,”  Vogue V8837, I decided to ignore the less-than-stellar reviews on PR and muslin the new pants.

Thanks to the reviews and Katherine’s blog, I went in expecting a couple of things.  First, they would be baggy around the hips and thighs, and tight at the ankles.  And, the side seam would swing around to the front to some extent or other.

OK.

I was warned.

I grabbed an old bed sheet, pressed the pattern, and set to work.

Examining the pattern, I learned that the finished hip on size 14 (my measured size) is 42 inches. I decided to sew with the size 12 to give me only two inches of ease. I laid out the pattern, overlapping the on-grain back leg seam and eliminating the pocket.

Notice the grain line on the front leg at right.

pattern for muslin

I don’t understand exactly how that front grainline accomplished  pulling the side seam around to the front, as Katherine’s blog said it would, but it did.

Once cut, I drew some lines on the fabric to help me judge fit better.  The front vertical line is the grain line.  The back vertical line is the seam line that would be going straight up the center of each leg.  Horizontal lines are estimated hip and crotch lines, but are not precise and any similarity of front to back is purely coincidental.  I also noted the center front, waist and fold lines to help me situate my “waistband” strip.

When I sewed, I followed a hunch that I would not need the fly to get the pants on and sewed that closed.

The pants were a generous two inches too long, so I pinned that out.  Then I pinned the pants onto my makeshift waistband to check the fit.

Front

The front grainline shifts toward the inside and the side seam comes around to the front.  (I’m not sure you can see the side seam in the photo.)

In back there is a slight dip in my approximate hip line.  I can also tell you that there wasn’t enough crotch length.  It covered the area, but would not have been comfortable sitting.  But that’s just me.

The finished hem circumference for this size is 12 inches. My ankles are 7.25″–I just measured.  If you have normal sized legs, this might look similar to the envelope photo on you.  On me, this is another waif-look that would garner pitying glances, I think.

Back

The side view shows the side seam’s curve toward the front more clearly, and reveals the fullness of this pant.  I recall wearing similar styles in the–ah, early 90s/late 80s, was it?  You need that volume for the nice big pockets that this pattern offers.  I like this aspect of the pant.

I’m weary of butt-hugging pants styles.

I’ve seen enough of other women’s cellulite, thank you very much.

Side

While I was checking over my muslin, it occurred to me that this might be a style that would complement the Eureka top.  With a belt, (or measuring tape) it wasn’t a bad match!  It was definitely better than the tight jeans.

Eureka!

There are some things to like about the pattern.  First, those pockets.  They are nice and large and go al the way to the center front to be caught in the fly application presumably.  Second, the loose trouser fit coupled with the narrow lower legs is a refreshing new look, IMO.   Third, the elastic back waistband is something that many women like in a pant.

In the end, however, I’ve decided to pass on this one.  I’ll keep the muslin in case I want to have another look at it later.  The biggest holdup for me is that I don’t think I can tolerate that side seam traveling around to the front.

All these years I’ve tried to make my seams go straight.  ;-)

3 Comments


  1. Thanks for the review and all the photos. I wasn’t tempted to buy this one and think I’ll just continue to pass on it.

  2. Donna Wicks

    With this seam thing I would always think that I had cut the fabric off grain. At least you did not use your good fabric for the try out. Muslins are good sometimes.


  3. Ok, I have this one too. So the side seam is SUPPOSED to swing to the front? How interesting! Thanks for all the insights. So Katherine blogged about this? I’ll go check.

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