Bound To

Project: Winter Coat
Pattern: Simplicity 2311, View A
Size: 12, altered
Fabric: Double-faced wool from Gail K’s last year

As I expected, the machine buttonholes were just wrong for the coat. Working them was not really a problem. My Bernina has a buttonhole with a wide stitch, and I hoped that it would cover enough of the coating to keep the buttonhole from pulling out. It seemed to, but the problem was cutting them open. Once cut, they weren’t pretty. Plus, I couldn’t be certain that I wouldn’t cut some of the buttonhole stitches–even though I was using a chisel.

So I settled on the bound variety.

At first I planned to use the strip method that I used last year.  That worked really well in the boucle, but was kinda fiddly.  When I was doing some blog reading today, I was reminded by Sharon Sews of the patch method of making bound buttonholes.  I like that method because you have good control of the corners with the little windowpane.

I did make the lips differently, however.  Palmer-Pletsch, in Jackets for Real People, details a way of using two rectangles of fabric basted together and pressed open to make the lips.  Once the buttonhole window is constructed, the basted lips are aligned at the center of the window and and stitched in place.

That eliminates handling the tiny individual lips, plus they are already basted together.

It seems less fiddly to me and it looks pretty good, though I can see some of the lining fabric that I used to make my window peaking out on this sample.  If I don’t get the actual buttonholes any better, I won’t worry about it.

Bound Buttonhole Sample

I only have to make three.  Let’s get at it!

4 comments

  1. Carolyn says:

    I’m impressed! I haven’t done a bound buttonhole in like forever and the proliferation of these on the web is making me think I need to get with it and make some. This will look amazing on your coat!

  2. sharon says:

    When sewing on the lips, if you sew just outside of your patch stitching, your lining won’t show I also find I have more control if I stitch each side separately. The two long sides first, then the two short sides

  3. Lady T says:

    I thought the little edge of lining peeking out was part of the fabric pattern. It looks quite nice. Good luck sewing the Big 3 today.