Archive for June 2011

June 2011 Projects

Beth reminded me (Thanks!) that I had forgotten to add my jumpsuit to the list of June projects. I had not only forgotten my jumpsuit, I had completely forgotten this post!

I build these lists as I complete projects and have it automagically post on the last day of the month. Seems to me that I was in a hurry the day I posted about my jumpsuit. Forgotten or not, it’s probably my favorite project for the month!

And with that, I’ll call this month’s production a perfect 10!

Finished front, modeled 1. Easy knit cardigan sewn from Simplicity 2206
Simplicity 2263, finished 2. Silk shell sewn from Simplicity 2263
Lavender Jeans finished 3 & 4. Jeans sewn from McCall’s 5894
After laundering 5. Raggy Scarf sewn from miscellaneous charm squares
20110613 Finished 6. Knit tank sewn from Vogue 1167
Kwik Sew 3342 7. Tricot nightgown sewn from Kwik Sew 3342
Turquoise interlock 8 & 9. Two knit tops sewn from Simplicity 3759
Finished 10. Jumpsuit sewn from Simplicity 2187

Tissue Fit(s!)

Project:  2011 Birthday dress
Pattern: OOP Style 2728, View A
Fabric:  Patriotic print from Hancock Fabrics

I started the tissue fit by tracing off the bodice in size 12 and examining the way that everything aligned.  I could tell right away that the shoulder seams weren’t going to come out right.  The back shoulder was at least 1/2″ nearer the outside of my body than the front shoulder.  (Somebody has blogged about this issue, but I can’t find it to link….)

Then I pinned it together and the trouble began.  Those uneven shoulders caused a multitude of problems–gaping, pulling.  So much so that I really couldn’t tell where to start, so I added to the top of the shoulders and the side seams so that I could pin things in place in an effort to get it all lined up smoothly–grainlines straight, and centers matching my centers.

Now tissue fitting is not that difficult normally.  With a big piece of pattern tissue roughly darted to my shape, I pin my green waistband on and can usually get things pretty close to satisfactory.   With this little bodice open at the shoulders, I had a hard time!  You can imagine pinning the thing to undergarments, leaning over to get the shoulder seam to flip up to grab, just as everything shifts off grain again!

Ughh.

Just then I realized that Brunhilde was still pretty much the same as me in the shoulders and upper back.  Ahhh!

Front tissue fit

Thank heavens!  I was able to pin it loosely on her and get the grainlines straight and the shoulder seams aligned then try it on myself with much less angst.

On Brunhilde, I could easily see what needed to be done to make the shoulders line up properly.  I sliced across the lower back armhole and shifted the entire side inward 1/2″ to get it to match the front.  Then I was able to adjust the shoulder seam to match mine. I darted out some length from that back armhole, too.

Back Tissue Fit

At this point the bodice is looking pretty good.  I don’t believe my side seam is straight, but I’ll double check that.

Side Tissue fit

This afternoon I hope to pin on the skirt and see how that looks on me.  A quick try on Brunhilde shows that I will need to shorten above the back waist a little.

Skirt Back

It’s harder to tell in front. The waistline might be perfect there.

Skirt front

I’m getting excited about this one.  Maybe I’ll be able to cut fabric tonight.

And so it begins

I ran to Hancock’s yesterday with the idea of purchasing a patriotic print for my 2011 birthday dress. They had several, and the one I first picked had a blue background with red, white, and blue bunting printed on it–perfect!

The fabric was so stiff with sizing, or whatever that stuff is, that I could tell that it wouldn’t last through the first wash. I moved on down the rack letting my fingers tell me which cottons were worthy. This was a nice one:

Patriotic (??) Print

I suppose this was designed as a companion print for the others, ’cause I honestly can’t see anything patriotic about it.  No matter.  It will make a dress I can wear past my birthday.

Style 2728 View A was my final pattern choice.  Here’s the line drawing to refresh your memory:

Style 2728 line drawing

I think it will work out nicely.  Habace asked where I found the pattern, and I’m sorry to say that they are apparently no longer being produced.  This was has been in my stash for years, ever since they sold them at JoAnn’s.  I can’t even find a copyright date on it.

I’ve done the bodice tissue fit, but I’ll have to tell you about that tomorrow.  I’m hungry and I hear Mr H rummaging around in the kitchen.  Time to see what’s going on!

Project #35 : Simplicity 2187 Jumpsuit

Whee!

Finished front Finished

These photos were taken early Saturday before we left for Mama’s house.  The outfit was a breeze.  Fun to wear, fun to make, and garnered some compliments though no one but Mama asked me if I made it.

I mentioned on Thursday that there were a couple of things I could tell you about this, and after wearing it all day Saturday, I’ll say that one of them was definitely a problem.  It’s hard to get on and off.

The opening only goes to the waistline and though they gave you a little extra length with the overlapping fronts, it’s not enough.  Now perhaps I’m a little more clothing-claustrophic than the average person due to my early traumatic experience with the rusty zipper, but I struggled to get the thing up and over my shoulders each and every time I needed to, uh, well, go.

It would not be too much trouble to design some sort of opening that went down further, perhaps closing with a hook at the waistline.  I’ll let you decide whether or not that’s worth the effort.  The dress, of course, would not be a problem.

Another issue for me was the length in the torso.  I am quite short through the torso, and I did not shorten this pattern there because I thought I would be able to shorten it as I sewed.  That would have been possible had I been willing to rip out the elastic casing after I had already installed it.

I was not.

The pattern has you use 1/4″ elastic sewn into the 5/8″ waistline seam.  I shortened the pattern a bit by sewing a 3/4″ seam there and using 3/8″ elastic.

There was a bit too much length in the bodice, but the part that bothered me most was the excess crotch depth.  To correct that, I topstitched the casing down to the pants after sewing it and getting the elastic right.  This made the bottom of the casing ride at my waistline and put the pants in the right place.  It increased the bodice blousing, but not too much and I needed the length to get in and out of it.

Topstiching added

Finally, I shortened the pants by two inches.  Even with my skinny legs, I notice the narrow width at the bottom when I sit.  If you plan to shorten the pants, you might want to cut them off at them hemline rather than the higher up as I did, or put a vent at the hem.

Oh, and one more thing.  I applied my happy crotch curve to this pattern, as usual.  Don’t expect your pattern to have this lovely shape.  LOL!

Center curve

Considering

I’ve narrowed the pattern candidates for the 2011 Birthday Dress down to these two, Style 2728 and Vogue 8727. They are very similar, but I’m leaning toward the style pattern View A (on the model).

2011 Birthday dress candidates

The major difference is that the Style pattern doesn’t have the midriff band.  Here’s a line drawing:

Line drawings

Now to find some fabric!  I haven’t looked in the stash yet, so there may be something there.

I’ve finished my jumpsuit, but the blogging will have to wait until later.  We’ve had an electrician here all morning putting up new lights and fans, plus I’ve got to get ready for Mom’s birthday party this weekend.  I doubt I’ll get a chance to put up photos before next week.  I love the jumpsuit, but I have a couple of things to say about it that might be helpful if you want to make it.