Archive for Jackets

Close enough

Project: Denim Jacket
Pattern: Kwik Sew 2895
Size: Small
Fabric: Denim from Hancock Fabrics

Front buttoned

It came out just as I envisioned.  I wish I had put some of those waist tabs on the back/side of the waistband, but the opportunity had passed by the time I realized that I wanted them.  The length is just right and the welt pockets turned out fine.  I tacked the pocket bags to a seam inside to avoid having them show when I put my hands in.

From the side you can see that I used the back side of the fabric on the undersleeve. I wanted a bit more of the bright blue to show from the back.

Finished! Well almost.

The  buttons are not on the sleeves. Somehow I miscalculated the number required and I had to order 8 more. I decided to install them after my order comes, in case something goes wrong. I’d rather have two that don’t match than only one…

I’ll let Brunhilde wear it until the buttons come–which I ordered off Etsy, BTW. The only ones available locally were shiny silver. These are silver with some brass showing.

I *heart* them.

Meanwhile, I’m moving on.  My SIL and I are doing recycled/upcycled/used/handmade this Christmas, so I’ve got work to do!  I’m hoping to make a few knit tops and such for myself in-between those projects.  I’ll be in and out here on the blog.

We’re getting ready for Thanksgiving this week and family is coming in.  Gobble,gobble!!

 

Kwik Sew Jacket, part 3

Over the last week there has been some progress on the jacket.  I would like to say that everything has gone smoothly, but it just ain’t so.

If you’ve “known” me for very long, you know that I have slovenly marking habits.  That led to  my interfacing too much of the front yoke facing, which led to a problem turning it back, which made it hard to put the collar on.  Add that to the fact that the Sprout and I were have a serious texting session while I was attempting to sew that collar, and you have a whole evening’s sewing wasted.

I basted the collar in off-center twice.  I missed an entire segment of the neckline once, and last I sewed it on inside-out.

Let’s just say I was bummed and put down my seam ripper for the night.

When I got back to it a few days later, I marked carefully and made sure that everything was lined up right.  Then, I trimmed away 1/4″ of the seam allowances to make that more manageable.

The collar sewed right in without a hitch.

When you see the photo, you’ll notice that I decided to use the bright blue underside of the fabric for parts of the jacket.  On the bright blue, I topstitched gold.

So far I’m loving it, but it will definitely not look like my original inspiration, and people will know I made it.

That’s ok, too.

I’m especially happy with the vertical welt pockets put in using my old tutorial based on another Kwik Sew pattern.  I followed the instructions exactly, since I didn’t want to risk more mistakes!  (If you want to see more in-progress photos, click on the photo  to go to Flickr.)

Front so far

Personalizing my new jacket

Now that my pattern is fitted, I thought I’d share a bit more of my sewing process.  It seems that I’ve fallen into the habit of showing mostly finished garments lately, and skipping over the process of making them.  (That’s sort of like seeing pictures of RTW, isn’t it?)

For this new jacket, I picked up a denim from Hancock Fabrics that has a pretty blue on the back side.  My serger is already threaded with this color, and I can’t wait to see how it looks.  I doubt anyone will see it, but I’ll enjoy its being there!

denim

I’ve got the pattern all cut now, except for the lower set of pockets.  Those pockets are a bit of a puzzle to me.  I can’t imagine how they are secured to the jacket.  You can’t just let ‘em flap.

Or can you?

The upper pockets were easy.  I want my pockets shaped and topstitched just like the inspiration photo. To get the look, I mimicked my pocket’s flap shape onto the bottom of the pocket bag and tapered the sides a bit.

compare pockets

After I get to the store tomorrow to look at some jackets, I’ll get the inner engineer to work on the lower set of pockets.  In the event that there is sewing time, maybe I’ll see how that serger thread looks with the inside of the denim!

New Kwik Sew 2895 Jeans Jacket

Have you been seeing all the jeans jackets out there this season?  Me, too.  I need one!  I’m thinking this will be the perfect “tone-it-down” jacket for my black sheath, not to mention a great outfit-maker for a number of other things in my closet.

The medium-blue denim has already been pre-washed and is ready to cut.  All I have to do is get my pattern ready.  My pattern, of course, is Kwik Sew 2895.  I have several jeans jacket patterns, but this one ticks all the boxes–shapely, classic style, and offers the options I want.

Fitting

Sure, I’ve made Kwik Sew 2895 3 times already–twice for me and once for Mom.  It’s a great little jacket, but this time I want to make a few changes so I’m fitting it again.

For one thing, I alter differently than I did when I made it back in ’08.  I still have the same issues–narrow rounded shoulders, swayback, etc, but I’ve found some slightly different ways to deal with them.

Besides that, I want a few extras on this jacket.  My new jacket will be the length of view A but with a band like view B.  I’m considering adding vertical welt pockets like on this Rag & Bone jacket that I’ve seen several places.  (I’m not certain what makes a jeans jacket cost $253…)

Funny thing.  I’m taking Kathleen Cheetham’s Craftsy class on fitting the Back, Neck, and Shoulders.  When I started watching the video I immediately noticed that she has the exact jacket I want to make on a mannequin in the background of the video.

My need for the jacket is continually reinforced! :-D

Finished Cardi!

Project: Cardigan
Pattern: Butterick B5760 view B
Size: slightly altered 14
Fabric: JoAnn’s sweater knit

The new cardigan is done, and I love it! It’s the perfect thing to throw on when it’s a little cool. I expect to be making more.

Closed

Katherine asked if I cut it in a single layer to avoid the dreaded bullseye. No, but I confess that I marked the bust point on the pattern and placed it carefully. When your entire fabric is covered with targets, it’s fun to try to find appropriate negative space!

The closure didn’t turn out to be too difficult, after all. I knew I didn’t want to attempt buttonholes on my lumpy neckband, and I considered sewing only a single snap at the top. After digging through some unpacked supplies, however, I found these antique brass ring snaps that work nicely.

Snap

It was a beautiful morning today, and I had planned to wear the cardigan today anyway.  What better time to get some photos?  As a bonus, I found a setting on my camera timer where I can have it snap 3 pictures in succession giving me a chance to change position slightly between each one.  I can’t believe the time that saved!

This is how I’ll likely wear the cardi. As Elaine pointed out, I probably didn’t need a closure at all!

B5760 As worn

But it’s nice to have some other options:

B5760 Buttoned

And I could even wear it with a belt, though not this one.

B5760 with belt

I’m surprised how well this cardigan fits, being a size larger than what I usually use.  The only alterations were to add some length over the bust and remove some length at the back waist.  It *is* a bit big in back, but not bad.

B5760 Back

 

I doubt I’ll spend much, if any, time trying to make that fit more closely.  I do think I’ll widen the center front band to 1 inch to give more room for buttonholes.  The neckband–I’m not sure.  Snoop shopping showed me that most of the neckbands were just like this one, even when the front button bands were wider.

We’ll see.  I’m working on something else right now.   Maybe I can show you that tomorrow!