Project: Safari Jacket
Pattern: McCall’s M5396, pockets from Ottobre Woman, 2/2006 #16
Size: 12 with minor alterations to bust
Fabric: JoAnn’s Twill in tobacco to be lined with a rayon crane print
There was quite a bit of sewing on the safari jacket over the weekend, pleasantly accompanied by the Blackstone Audio performance of Naked Once More by Elizabeth Peters.
My inner-engineer decided on pocket-free flaps with operational buttonholes for the upper set, and pleated pockets with inverted pleats for the lower set. The lower pockets are lined making the pleat non-operational. She also decided to leave the back un-elasticated, and simply pulled to shape by the belt.
Oh! I’m adding a lining. The twill sticks to everything, so I found a stashed rayon print bought to line something else that will work. Here is a snapshot of progress so far:
There is a completed collar, as well, which has not been sewn on. I plan to attach it in the Ottobre fashion–sewing it on to the jacket, then sewing the lining over it, rather than the McCall’s way of sewing the under-collar to the jacket and the upper collar to the lining then sewing them together around the edges.
This is probably the state in which it will remain until at least Wednesday. Today has been crazy-busy and tomorrow doesn’t look much better.
Not only have we been busy, but a large needle has once again been applied to my person.
I’m sitting on an ice pack as I type. (TMI yet?? ) The doc wants to revise his opinion that I am suffering from hip bursitis and order an MRI… sigh.
As soon as I get some sewing done, I’ll let you know.
When things are all laid out and all I’ve got to do is follow directions, I can plow through some sewing. Especially now that I’ve rediscovered listening to audio books while I sew.
Turn on the audio, thread up the machines, and read the pattern’s sewing directions.
Multi-tasking, fun and easy. Things come to a screeching halt, however, when I’ve got to figure something out.
Having to call in the inner-engineer really spoils my fun. Take this jacket, for instance. Since I chose to make a safari jacket from a pattern that is decidedly *not* a safari jacket, my inner engineer has to get busy and figure out how to turn it into one.
- Figure out where to position the belt loops
- Decide whether or not to elasticate that bit in the back
- Make some epaulets for the shoulders
- Locate and trace the upper pocket flap from the other pattern
- Figure out where to sew the flap
- Should there be a real pocket underneath the upper flap or not?
- Decide how to construct the self-fabric belt and loops
- Position the lower pockets and flaps
- and probably some more stuff that I haven’t even thought of yet!
It’s enough to make me want to go bake a cake or something. I can’t concentrate on listening to my book with all that thinking going on!
Project: Spring Jacket
Pattern: Ottobre Woman 2/2006, #15 Jacquard Jacket
Size: 40 with minor alterations to shoulders and bust
Fabric: Cotton drapery print
It’s done! Here’s a mirror shot with me in it:
And here are Brunhilde’s modeled shots:
Next February or March this will be a great jacket to grab when I want spring but it’s still cool.
After the sleeve heads were in, I bagged the yellow broadcloth lining, which doesn’t seem nearly so shocking now that it’s in. There’s no topstitching, and the buttons are new vintage stock from stash.
Overall, the jacket was a breeze to sew. I had absolutely no problems beyond eliminating the vertical fold from the sleeve.
Now that the sleeves work, I’m ready to sew it again! But probably not into the safari-style jacket that started all this. It has a little too much structure for that style, I think. I have another idea, though.
Last Sunday I wore my red McCall’s M5396 jacket, and it struck me as the perfect safari jacket pattern. It’s the right length with about the right amount of ease. I’ll eliminate that back belt and elastic, then add a self-fabric belt and loops, some epaulets, and the right pockets. I might even add a lining.
Yes I’m managing, but it requires some creative use of devices whose first language isn’t photography. Take this first photo here. It was taken with Photo Booth on my iMac–very low-resolution. I doubt you can tell much about it, what with the overhead fluorescent lighting and the warring prints and all that…
The important thing is to show you my best sleeve–on your left, my right. This was after four or five muslins–I lost count. I achieved it by subtracting from the backs and adding to the fronts of the sleeve pieces. It’s not perfect, but it’s definitely good enough. It’s slimmer and shorter than the original sleeve on the right, too.
And here’s Brunhilde modeling for my Droid–higher resolution, but still less than wonderful with the overhead lighting, and no chance of a self-portrait.
At any rate, these are my two happy sleeves. I did not have enough fabric to recut the sleeves, so I ripped apart the original sleeves, and cut the new ones from the original pieces. Since I was going smaller, it worked out great.
I still want to put in some sleeve heads and do a little pressing, but they are essentially done.
I’ve got the lining laid out on the cutting table, so if I get time tomorrow I should make some headway on this thing. I haven’t had much time since last week, what with upgrading my blog, switching from Firefox to Chrome, real life and all that…